Caribbean carnival calendar: when every island celebrates
Caribbean carnivals are staggered across the whole year rather than clustered before Lent โ which means there is almost always a season running somewhere.
Why the dates are spread across the year
Carnival began as a pre-Lenten festival, and Trinidad still holds to that calendar. But across the region most islands moved their celebrations, and the reasons are practical as much as cultural.
Some shifted to commemorate Emancipation in August rather than the church calendar, tying the festival to the ending of slavery in the British colonies. Others moved to avoid competing with Trinidad, whose Carnival draws visitors and performers from the entire region. Saint Kitts went the other way entirely and holds its at Christmas.
The result is that Caribbean carnival is close to a year-round circuit, and performers, bandleaders and mas designers travel it. Note that dates tied to Lent shift with Easter, so the pre-Lenten festivals move between February and March from year to year.
Winter: December to February
Saint Kitts opens Sugar Mas in the second half of December, running into the first days of January โ one of very few Caribbean carnivals tied to Christmas.
The Bahamas holds Junkanoo in the small hours of Boxing Day and again on New Year's morning, with enormous crรชpe-paper costumes and cowbell-driven rhythm sections parading through Nassau.
Saint Croix runs the Crucian Christmas Festival from December into early January, closing with its parades in the first week of the new year.
Guyana celebrates Mashramani on Republic Day in late February, with costume bands and float parades through Georgetown.
Trinidad and Tobago's Carnival falls on the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday โ February or March depending on the year โ preceded by weeks of calypso tents, Panorama steelband rounds and soca competitions. Dominica keeps the same pre-Lenten date with a deliberately traditional masquerade.
Spring: March to May
Montserrat holds its St Patrick's Festival in March, marking both the island's Irish heritage and the 1768 slave uprising planned for that date โ a week of masquerade, string band, calypso and commemoration.
The Cayman Islands run Batabano on Grand Cayman in the spring, with Cayman Brac's Braccanal alongside it.
Saint Thomas Carnival in the US Virgin Islands takes place in April or May, with J'ouvert and a parade through Charlotte Amalie.
Carriacou's Maroon and String Band Music Festival comes in the spring, and Saint Lucia's jazz festival occupies May.
Summer: June to August
This is the crowded part of the calendar. Saint Vincent's Vincy Mas runs from late June into early July. Saint Lucia holds its Carnival in July, having moved it off the pre-Lenten date to claim the summer stage.
Saint John Festival in the US Virgin Islands falls around Emancipation Day and the Fourth of July. Nevis holds Culturama from late July into August, and Antigua's Carnival runs the same weeks, timed to the anniversary of emancipation.
Bermuda's Cup Match โ two days of cricket that stop the entire island โ falls at the end of July or start of August, alongside Emancipation Day.
Barbados's Crop Over builds through the summer and climaxes in early August with Grand Kadooment. Grenada's Spicemas runs in August, with the oil-covered jab jab masqueraders taking the streets before dawn at J'ouvert. Anguilla's Summer Festival and the British Virgin Islands' Emancipation Festival both fall in August, the former built around boat racing.
Autumn: September to November
Belize combines Saint George's Caye Day and Independence Day into weeks of celebration through September.
Dominica's World Creole Music Festival falls in late October alongside independence celebrations, drawing Creole-language acts from across the francophone and Caribbean world.
Saint Lucia marks Jounen Kwรฉyรฒl, Creole Day, at the end of October, and its La Rose and La Marguerite flower festivals fall in August and October.
The Cayman Islands hold Pirates Week in November. Belize marks Garifuna Settlement Day on 19 November with a re-enactment of the Garifuna landing by dugout canoe, followed by drumming and punta through the night.
Then Saint Kitts opens Sugar Mas again, and the circuit begins another turn.
What the seasons have in common
However far apart the dates, the structure repeats. A season opens with the release of new soca and the opening of calypso tents. Competitions run in heats and semi-finals over several weeks โ separate contests for calypso, for soca, often for junior performers and for steelband where a pan tradition exists.
J'ouvert opens the final stretch before dawn, traditionally the darker, muddier, more anarchic counterpart to the costumed parade: oil, paint, mud and old mas rather than feathers. The main parade follows, with bands crossing a judging stage in costume.
A road march or equivalent title is decided by what is played and what the crowd answers to. Then the season closes, and the next island's begins.
Following it on the radio
Radio is the best way to track any of this from a distance, because carnival is a radio event as much as a street event. Stations carry the competition heats, the results, the arguments about judging, and above all the music as the season builds.
Soca releases begin arriving weeks before each island's carnival, and the local stations are where the season is decided โ most visibly in Trinidad, where the Road March title goes to the song played most often at the judging points rather than to a panel's choice.
Tuning into an island's stations in the month before its carnival is the closest thing to being there. The countries above all have stations streaming live.